Art diary page #19 - A date with Caravaggio in Messina, Sicily - and his art in exile

Probably the most underrated museum I’ve been is the Messina Regional Museum. I’m a huge fan of Caravaggio, and this museum houses two of his works produced during his brief but transformative stay in Sicily. After fleeing Malta in 1608, following his violent assault on a fellow Knight, Caravaggio found refuge in Sicily, moving between Syracuse, Messina, and Palermo. This period, spanning 1608 to 1609, saw him create some of his most intense and introspective works, shaped by both his fugitive status and the region’s unique cultural and geographical environment.

Sicily, with its dramatic landscapes and complex history, provided a fitting backdrop for an artist already steeped in the contrast of light and dark, sin and redemption. The region’s poverty, plague, and political unrest mirrored Caravaggio’s own struggles as a man on the run, constantly armed with a dagger, fearing arrest or vengeance. These experiences manifest in the darker tones and heightened emotional gravity of his Sicilian works.

‘The Resurrection of Lazarus’ housed in the Museo Regionale di Messina, is a prime example. The painting is characterized by its stark chiaroscuro, with Lazarus emerging from deep shadows into harsh light, a reflection of Caravaggio’s existential struggle. The realism of the figures and their raw, emotional expressions create a scene that feels less like a biblical miracle and more like a desperate plea for redemption—both Lazarus’s and the artist’s.

Similarly, ‘The Adoration of the Shepherds’ captures the vulnerability and fragility of its subjects. The soft light that illuminates the baby Christ contrasts with the rough, shadowed figures of the shepherds, echoing the harsh realities of Caravaggio’s own life. The earthy tones and restrained composition reflect a more subdued and introspective artist, grappling with his inner turmoil.

Sicily left a profound mark on Caravaggio’s work. The region’s contrasts—between light and darkness, beauty and suffering—deepened his exploration of these themes. His time in Sicily represents a pivotal point in his artistic journey, where his personal struggles and the influence of his surroundings collided to produce some of his most powerful and haunting works.

The museum houses many many beautiful works from the various eras that shaped the local history, architecture and art, from the Islamic-Normand onwards. An absolute must-see!